Right off Plaza Dorrego is Gil Antigüedades, an unexpected dreamworld of vintage clothing. Head downstairs for row upon row of exquisite 1940’s beaded rayon frocks, flapper wedding gowns, velvet hats with veils, alligator purses, and 19th-century gloves, all meticulously maintained and displayed. The owner, María Inés Gil, says she has been collecting since she was 15, and you believe her. In her extraordinary boutique she shows me a one-shouldered sequined dress by Paco Jamandreu, confidante and designer for Madame Perón herself. “We had such good design here in the 50’s,” Gil says with a sigh.